Natural care and soaps: the obligation to comply with the INCI nomenclature
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Time to read 4 min
A list of ingredients on my natural soap in… Latin?!
Origin and history of the INCI list
INCI, or International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, was introduced to standardize how cosmetic ingredients are listed on labels . Before INCI, each country had its own rules and terminology for cosmetic ingredients, making it difficult for consumers and professionals to understand product components. Natural soaps are no exception!
- Origin of INCI: INCI was developed in the 1970s by the International Committee for Cosmetic Nomenclature (INCC), a group of experts from the international cosmetics industry. Its goal was to create a common language for the global cosmetics industry, thereby facilitating international trade and ensuring greater transparency for consumers.
- Evolution and Adoption: Since its inception, the INCI has been widely adopted by many countries and regulators around the world. In 1997, the European Union mandated the use of the INCI nomenclature for cosmetic products sold in its member states to standardize consumer information and facilitate cross-border trade. The United States has also adopted the INCI through the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for cosmetic products sold within its territory.
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Why was the INCI established? The INCI was established for several key reasons: transparency, safety, and to enable healthcare professionals and regulators to better assess the potential risks of ingredients used in cosmetics. Finally, the INCI nomenclature facilitates the trade of cosmetic products between different countries by using a common nomenclature.
The INCI list in Canada
The INCI nomenclature has been mandatory in Canada since 2006 for cosmetic manufacturers and retailers, whether artisanal or industrial, to avoid any confusion over ingredient names. Health Canada requires cosmetic manufacturers, even artisanal ones, to strictly adhere to the Cosmetic Regulations.
The INCI nomenclature may seem strange and give the impression that the ingredients contain spelling mistakes. Well, no! Although it appears intimidating, the INCI nomenclature is designed to ensure universal recognition of ingredients, thus avoiding confusion with varied or inappropriate trade names. Botanical substances come directly from plants and are not chemically modified before being used in natural cosmetics, skincare, and soaps. In the INCI dictionary, they are referred to by their genus, species, common name, the part of the plant from which they come, and the extraction method. In Canada , botanical substances must be referred to using at least the genus and species mentioned in the INCI name. Although INCI has been adopted worldwide, there are still differences in national regulations:
- European Union : The use of the INCI is mandatory for all cosmetic products. Ingredients must be listed in descending order of concentration.
- United States : The FDA requires all cosmetic products to use the INCI nomenclature on their labels.
- Japan : Although Japan has its own nomenclature system, it also uses INCI for products exported to Western markets.
The INCI labeling of our natural care products and soaps
Due to limited space on the labeling of our natural soaps , bath bombs , and other body products, we only print the INCI list. We regularly see products at farmers' markets that display an ingredient list in French only. While I am sure the products (usually soaps) are of high quality, it is mandatory in Canada that these products display the INCI list.
By reporting manufacturers who fail to comply with INCI labeling requirements, you help ensure the safety and transparency of cosmetic products on the Canadian market. Contact Health Canada using this form, and that's it!
Please note that some non-plant ingredients, such as goat's milk, may appear as trivial names. In the event that an ingredient does not have an INCI name, this name will appear under its (recognized) chemical name. In addition, all cosmetic products intended for sale in Canada are subject to a mandatory declaration called "Cosmetic Product Declaration", in section 30 of the Cosmetic Regulations . Our products are no exception, we are proud to have completed the necessary declarations!
A brief list of INCI ingredients appearing on our products
At La Sultana, all our natural and handmade products, including skincare products, soaps, bath bombs, and more, display an INCI list. Some products, such as bath bombs, are more difficult to label due to their shape. In these cases, the INCI lists are found in the product sheets on the website, and we encourage consumers to consult them.
Olive oil = Olea Europaea Oil
Sunflower Oil = Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Shea Butter = Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Cocoa Butter = Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
Coconut Oil = Cocos Nucifera Oil
Castor Oil = Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Rice bran oil = Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Sweet Almond Oil = Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
I admit that preparing INCI ingredients is a daunting task that I would prefer to avoid. But the law is the law! In short, our natural soaps , bath salts and bath bombs , lotions and body butters all display this list. The INCI list has several advantages, including being transparent by providing a clear and standardized list of ingredients that allows consumers to know exactly what they are applying to their skin and hair. You should always require that an INCI list be included on your natural soaps and artisanal treatments. At the very least, this list must be displayed in the product sheet on the manufacturer's website.
I invite you to consult the Government of Canada website to view all the information necessary for your good understanding of the INCI nomenclature.
Kristel Audet
Founder and creator of natural care products made with passion 💖