Natural care and soaps: the obligation to comply with the INCI nomenclature
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Time to read 3 min
An ingredient list on my natural soap in… Latin?!
INCI, or International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, was introduced to standardize how cosmetic product ingredients are listed on labels. Before INCI, each country had its own rules and terminologies for cosmetic ingredients, making it difficult for consumers and professionals to understand product components.
Origin and history of the INCI list
- Origin of INCI: INCI was developed in the 1970s by the International Cosmetic Nomenclature Committee (INCC), a group formed by experts from the international cosmetic industry. Its goal was to create a common language for the global cosmetic industry, thereby facilitating international trade and ensuring greater transparency for consumers.
- Evolution and adoption: Since its creation, INCI has been widely adopted by many countries and regulators worldwide. In 1997, the European Union made the use of INCI nomenclature mandatory for cosmetic products sold in its member states, to standardize the information provided to consumers and facilitate cross-border trade. The United States also adopted INCI via the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for cosmetic products sold in their territory.
- Why was INCI implemented? INCI was established for several key reasons: transparency, safety, to allow healthcare professionals and regulators to better assess the potential risks of ingredients used in cosmetics. Finally, INCI nomenclature facilitates the trade of cosmetic products between different countries by using a common nomenclature.
The INCI list in Canada
INCI nomenclature has been mandatory in Canada since 2006 for cosmetic manufacturers and retailers, whether artisanal or industrial, to avoid any confusion of ingredient names. Health Canada requires cosmetic product manufacturers, even artisans, to strictly adhere to the Cosmetic Regulations.
INCI nomenclature may seem strange. Although it appears intimidating, INCI nomenclature is designed to ensure universal recognition of ingredients, thus avoiding any confusion with varied or inadequate trade names. Plant substances come directly from plants and are not chemically modified before being used in cosmetics, natural care products and soaps. In the INCI dictionary, they are designated by their genus, species, common name, the part of the plant from which they come, and the extraction method. In Canada, plant substances must be designated using at least the genus and species mentioned in the INCI name. Although INCI has been adopted globally, there are still differences in national regulations:
- European Union: The use of INCI is mandatory for all cosmetic products. Ingredients must be listed in descending order of concentration.
- United States: The FDA requires all cosmetic products to use INCI nomenclature on their labels.
- Japan: Although Japan has its own nomenclature system, it also uses INCI for products exported to Western markets.
Examples of products with their INCI list on the product sheet
The INCI labeling of our natural care products and soaps
Given the limited space on the labels of our natural soaps, bath bombs, and other body products, we only print the INCI list on them. We regularly see products at farmers' markets that display an ingredient list only in French. While I am sure that the products (usually soaps) are of good quality, it is mandatory in Canada that these products display the INCI list.
By reporting artisans who do not comply with INCI labeling requirements, you contribute to ensuring the safety and transparency of cosmetic products on the Canadian market. You must contact Health Canada via this form, and that's it!
It should be noted that some non-plant ingredients, such as goat's milk, may appear under a trivial name. Should an ingredient not have an INCI name, it will appear under its recognized chemical name. In addition, all cosmetic products intended for sale in Canada are subject to a mandatory declaration called "Cosmetic Product Notification", under section 30 of the Cosmetic Regulations. Our products are no exception; we are proud to have completed the necessary declarations!
A brief list of INCI ingredients appearing on our products
At La Sultana, all our natural and handmade products, including skincare, soaps, bath bombs, etc., display an INCI list. Some products are more difficult to label given their shapes (e.g., bath bombs). In these cases, the INCI lists can be found on the product sheets on the website, and we invite consumers to consult them.
Olive oil
Olea Europaea Oil
Sunflower oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Shea butter
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Cocoa butter
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Coconut oil
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Castor oil
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Rice bran oil
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Sweet almond oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Why demand an INCI list?
I admit that preparing INCI ingredients is an arduous task. But the law is the law! In summary, our natural soaps, bath salts and bath bombs, lotions and body butters all display this list. The INCI list has several advantages, including transparency, by providing a clear and standardized list of ingredients allowing consumers to know exactly what they are applying to their skin and hair.
You should always demand that an INCI list be included on your natural and artisanal care product. At the very least, this list must be displayed in the product sheet on the manufacturer's website.
I invite you to consult the Government of Canada website to view all the necessary information for your good understanding of the INCI nomenclature.
