How to color with henna: not so complicated!
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Time to read 7 min
Henna hair dye: natural guide, expectations and tips
Do you want to add a touch of color to your hair, but are you afraid of harsh chemicals? Look no further, because henna is here for you! Master the art of doing a henna hair dye with ease with our expert advice. Henna is a natural hair coloring method that has been used for centuries. It is derived from the leaves of the henna plant, a shrub that grows mainly in Africa and Asia. In addition to giving vibrant color to the hair, henna is also known for its nourishing and strengthening properties. In this article, you will discover the basics of henna hair coloring, including the different types of henna powder and how to prepare them. Henna is not magic powder! You need to know if the product is suitable for your hair and your expectations. Then, I also guide you through the process of applying henna to your hair, giving you tips for getting the best results. Whether you want a subtle shade or a bold color, you'll know exactly how to use henna to get the result you want. So get ready to transform your hair naturally and stunningly with henna!
Henna hair dye: the basics
Types of henna
There are 2 types of pure henna and a host of variations thereof. Some are mixed with other ingredients, ranging from indigo to coffee and... chemical dyes. It is important to always take pure henna (like the one we offer!) and add other natural ingredients to create color variants.
- Natural henna or red henna Lawsonia inermis: originating from hot and dry regions, mainly in North Africa, the Middle East, and South Asia. This henna generally produces a red-orange or coppery hue. Personally, this is the one I use (see my small thumbnail below). The warmer the country of origin, the more the henna will tend to be red. For example, Yemen henna is redder than Moroccan henna, which is more orange. The exact color can also vary depending on the quality of the henna, the processing time and the additions.
- Neutral henna Cassia obovata: this plant is also known as "neutral henna" or "cassia". It comes mainly from tropical and subtropical regions. This powder does not color hair red or copper like traditional henna. Instead, it gives golden or yellow highlights. It is often used for its conditioning properties rather than for coloring.
- Natural indigo Indigofera tinctoria: we put it in the henna category since indigo is regularly used to darken henna shades. However, not to be confused with synthetic indigo which is used in the same way as natural indigo, but it is generally more stable and offers more uniform and predictable colors, especially used for textiles. Be careful, some soap makers use synthetic indigo in their products to achieve blue colors. The leaves of the Indigofera tinctoria plant are fermented to extract the blue color. This color is used to dye fabrics, clothing, and sometimes hair. Personally, I use indigo sparingly because it darkens hair a lot and the result is rather irreversible.
Expectations vs. Reality of Henna Hair Dye
Henna hair dye is often perceived as a natural and healthy alternative to chemical hair dyes, promising rich and long-lasting shades. However, it is important to note that results can vary considerably depending on various factors. Hair type, original color, and even health can influence the final result. For example, blonde or gray hair can take on a more vivid shade than expected, while dark hair may only show a slight reddish tint. In addition, damaged or porous hair can absorb henna unevenly, producing less uniform results. It is therefore essential to manage expectations and, if possible, to do a test on a small strand of hair before proceeding with a complete coloring. This allows you to better understand how your hair will react to henna and avoid unpleasant surprises. In addition, henna is natural and anything natural is nothing like products made from chemicals. Natural care is less "flashy", so no, you will never get a red 5/55 like the hairdresser. Hennas are gently eliminated over time. However, henna penetrates deeply into the hair shaft. If you decide to go ahead and do a henna hair dye, know that it is irreversible. Neither a bleach nor a hair color remover rarely manages to remove the trace of henna.
To remember: before doing a complete henna hair dye, always test a small strand. The result depends on the natural color, porosity, hair condition and processing time.
Equipment needed for henna hair dye
Fortunately, it is easy to do a henna hair dye with very little material and ingredients. It is possible to use only hot water to make the mixture. The addition of oil, coloring spices, coffee, etc., is not at all essential for a successful henna hair dye. It's an ecological AND economical option, wow! I love it! What you need is to have on hand: hot water (but not boiling), a bath towel or a cape, gloves and a coloring brush (although many people apply henna directly with their hands).
Possible additions: have fun!
For those who wish to vary the shades obtained with natural henna, various additions can be incorporated into the preparation. For example, adding turmeric can bring golden highlights, while ground coffee can intensify brown tones. Beet juice is often used to accentuate red nuances. Lemon juice, meanwhile, can help to lightly lighten the color and fix the pigments, although it can also dry out the hair, so it is recommended to use it in moderation. In terms of oils, coconut oil and olive oil are excellent choices for moisturizing hair during coloring, making the mixture easier to apply and leaving hair soft and shiny. Each of these additions can slightly modify the final color and improve the health of your hair, thus offering a more personalized and beneficial coloring experience.
Applying henna hair dye
Doing your henna hair dye: beware of damage!
I invite you to watch the short video attached, it summarizes extremely well the steps from mixing to final application. One minute twenty seconds of pure happiness! 😅
More seriously, just mix your henna powder with hot water, but not boiling, and add whatever you want to play with the shades. The process is a bit experimental, but that's exactly the beauty of henna!
The texture of the henna should remain quite thick, like a cake batter. But you do it as you feel! The texture has little impact on the result, it's a matter of taste.
Henna is very messy and staining. You must wear gloves because your hands will turn brown or orange a few minutes after contact with the skin. Same for the outline of the face, ears and neck, you must wipe them immediately after application.
The worst step in the process: rinsing
After putting on plastic wrap and a cap (or turban), it must be left to rest for 2 to 6 hours. I personally have never seen a different result for a longer resting period. Sometimes, the herbaceous smell of fresh henna in the hair can give a headache and the heaviness of the product. For my part, these are the two main reasons why I rinse my henna after 2 to 3 hours of rest. Some women leave it on all day or all night. It is certain that the color will be more intense and deep as the henna develops and attaches to the hair shaft. Honestly, rinsing is the critical step of henna hair dye. It is at this exact moment that you will discover if henna hair dye is for you. You have to rinse the paste under lukewarm water for ...several several minutes. At least 15 minutes, depending on the thickness, length and texture of your mane. I strongly advise against getting in the shower, hello orange ceiling, walls and curtain! It is not necessary to shampoo, but I find that shampoo helps to remove small powder residues. Conditioner is not necessary either, but it's up to you to judge depending on the texture of your hair. The herbaceous smell of henna will remain impregnated for a few weeks in your hair. This is completely normal! Ideally, you have to wait a good 48 hours for the color to be at its peak and well oxidized. Ideally, you have to wait 48 hours before washing your hair again.
Maintaining henna hair dye
The ideal frequency for applying henna to your hair is generally between three to six weeks. Personally, it varies between three weeks to six months and my color is always brilliant even after all this time. To tell you how perfect henna is! However, it is crucial to take into account the condition of your hair before each application. Too frequent use can lead to excessive build-up of henna, making the hair drier and stiffer. I advise you to apply the henna to your roots only, let it rest for an hour and then extend it to your lengths if you don't change the formula too much. This avoids clogging the hair and making it too porous. Make sure to hydrate your hair well between applications by using natural oils like coconut oil or nourishing hair masks to maintain the health and beauty of your hair.
After henna hair dye: strengthened hair and natural care
After your henna application, you will find that your hair is alive again! Henna hair dye offers many benefits for hair as it is a natural and chemical-free alternative to traditional hair dyes. Henna also strengthens the hair fiber by coating each strand, which can help reduce breakage and split ends. Every time I do a henna hair dye, I feel like my hair has doubled in volume! Thanks to its antifungal and antibacterial properties, henna can also improve scalp health, reducing dandruff and irritation. Happy coloring!
The advice shared in this article does not replace the advice of a health professional. Each skin and hair reacts differently, and we cannot be held responsible for individual reactions to products. The opinions expressed here are personal.
Kristel Audet
Founder and creator of natural care products concocted with passion 💖
